Richard Chai and Patrik Ervell Stick to Their Guns

Stephanie Colgan for The New York Times Patrik Ervell fall 2011. (See the full collection.)

There were quite a few men’s wear shows around the city over the weekend, more than I can remember in a while, and, alas, too many to cram into today’s review. A couple that I did see, Richard Chai and Patrik Ervell, I thought were excellent, and for the same reason: Each designer seems to be intent on refining a signature look until he reaches its apotheosis.

Stephanie Colgan for The New York Times Richard Chai fall 2011.

Season after season, there is no real news in Mr. Ervell’s collections, and that is not necessarily a bad thing. In fact, after watching the gray tweed suits, a latex windbreaker and some sporty jackets pass by, I was tempted to haul myself over to Opening Ceremony to buy his current styles, which aren’t all that different. I did notice that the pants were tapered a bit more for fall, and there was more volume in his outerwear pieces — namely, two billowing gray overcoats that happened to be cropped short. There were some obvious showpieces here like Top Gun flight suits done up with tricky zippers, including a version in black pleather, but I don’t think there’s a big market for those.

Mr. Chai’s men’s show also included his usual assortment of inky plaids and heathered fabrics that have a subtle appeal, especially the trousers in heavyweight wools. A short coat has been the major statement for men for fall, and Mr. Chai had a great looking peacoat in army green that was cropped at the waist.